CALIFORNIA
Once we reached the hills, we continued on foot and the Hollywood Sign seemed at hand. We had seen it hundreds of times on television or in movie theaters, and it suddenly greeted our eyes as in a wild dream. It is precisely what makes this place a unique site : it has little to offer from a purely aesthetic point of view, but the emotion it provides is huge. It is all about the myth that surrounds it, which seems suddenly palpable.
That is why we stayed late there : to immerse ourselves in that atmosphere out of the ordinary before joining the madness and the immoderation of Hollywood Boulevard. It almost looked like a rude awakening as the contrast was striking. We decided to make just a short stop to stroll a few minutes on the inevitable Walk of Fame, for we were not particularly attracted to the flashy and maybe superficial side of this place. But against all odds, we were caught by the crazy atmosphere that reigned over there, and we stayed for the evening. Everything is just excess and the area is much more attractive at night, when it gets filled with many-colored lights as far as the eye can see. We were like amazed and dazzled children, swept along by the crowd and the fervor.
Finally, we spent one of the best nights of our trip, and one of the most funny as well.
We broach it in this chapter in order to mention its part located beyond the San Bernardino Mountains, in the direction of Northern Arizona and Southern Nevada, that we crossed to join Laughlin.
When we drove away from Big Bear Lake and the surroundings, we left behind for good the part of our trip lulled by the mildness of the Southern-California coast and its idyllic hinterland, to throw ourselves wholeheartedly in the crossing of arid or semiarid areas, of National Parks out of the World and out of time, with a breathtaking hugeness. Indeed, there is no geographical transition between both: the change between the relative coolness in the San Bernardino Mountains’ landscapes filled with greenery and the overwhelming heat in the Mojave Desert’s lands of desolation is sudden. Terribly sudden… Terrifically sudden…
We first beheld it from a distant viewpoint in the mountains. Ghostly zone shrouded in a deep heat mist, we could only see some blurred outlines and an amazing ochre color which seemed to loom up from nowhere, for we had been accustomed to the bright greenery in landscapes made of lakes and mountains. Our imagination did the rest, as well as reminiscences from westerns and road-movies which carried us away and made us want to visit this wide region in the New Continent. We were torn between our impatience to join that amazing desert and give ourselves up to it, and the will to go on enjoying an unrestricted view of that entrancing and surrealist landscape.
When we finally entered it, we could not resist making a stop. The afternoon was nearing its end. Everything seemed dead and still in the deep heat. However, the spot was bathed in changing and full of life colors. This is mainly this strange paradox which makes it a place out of the ordinary.
In the distance, the road was boiling in the ruthless furnace, in a mist with moving and changing shapes. In our wildest dreams, we could see John Wayne on its faithful horse appear suddenly, or Thelma and Louise in their convertible Thunderbird with their hair in the wind, eating up miles, enjoying their one way trip both dramatic and romantic which bound them forever.
Then we embarked on a series of imitations of cinema heroes who crossed that desert punctuated with bursts of laughter and comical photographic sessions. Sometimes on the contrary, we did not say a word to immerse ourselves in this incredibly deep silence. This place touched us and inspired us in various ways.
Finally, we got back into our car to carry on driving. Then, that new adventure could begin.
We were ready to explore the mythical and breathtaking Western America National Parks. But maybe we already were from the moment we dismounted on the Los Angeles International Airport ground in a light-hearted mood and a head full of dreams… Or a few weeks before when we finally had our plane tickets in our hands, symbols of this terrific imminent journey…
Or maybe years ago, from the time this crazy dream began to form in our minds…
It is the second city in California, which is not San Francisco as we could think. It was built on a site mainly composed of deserts and wooded hills on the edge of the Pacific Ocean. Its main attractions are beaches, historic districts and the famous Balboa Park. It has a Bay which panorama is an incongruous mix of glass skyscrapers, Art Deco palaces and Moorish towers.
More secure and less polluted than Los Angeles, life there is also less expensive. It is famous for its big amusement parks with family tradition, but it has much more to offer. It abounds in riches. Many museums add to historical sites, which gives it an undeniable cultural interest. Its parks and its beaches compete in beauty. Located a few kilometers from the border, it has always maintained its important Mexican heritage.
The climate there is very pleasant: globally much sunny and mild, it is rarely raining. However, the weather can sometimes be patchy on the seafront, when a sudden mist drapes beaches with its thick and persistent grayness, and brings moreover a little bit of coolness. But it ends up clearing in the middle of the day.
In the City Center, Downtown, Embarcadero and Little Italy neighborhoods were in the beginning the seamen's quarter that was damaged, and then has been restored. The building Manchester Grand Hyatt rises on the bay, very modern with a little touch of Victorian style. A nice promenade runs along the Embarcadero Marina Park. It has many pontoons. There, you can admire nice yachts. The nautical theme is recurring in the district’s modern architecture: the San Diego Marriot Marquis & Marina depicts two boats that return to port if you observe it through a given angle. As for the San Diego Convention Center, its outline reminds a liner. You have understood; San Diego is primarily a city with harbor tradition: in front of the Maritime Museum, you can see magnificent sailboats moored to quays. Cruise ships draw alongside the Broadway Pier, as well as the ferry to Coronado Island. The USS Midway Museum allows you to visit the famous World War II aircraft carrier.
Gaslamp became the artists' haven. There are notably restaurants and cafes that attract crowds of people along Broadway. Art galleries, theaters, museums and shops are not forgotten. We've been there a Thursday night and the atmosphere was going full swing, with many students. Buildings and streetlights - which gave the district its name - from the 19th century mix with modern buildings and give the place a certain authenticity and a historical value. A modern architecture that is sometimes daring and innovative mixes with older styles like Victorian or Far-West, which forms a very eclectic set.
We mostly visited Balboa Park, a must-see: it is a huge exotic park overlooking the ocean. It groups together very varied museums, theatres, gardens (including a beautiful Japanese Garden), a golf course, cycle lanes, picnic and hiking areas, and especially the famous zoo: it is unique in the world with more than 3200 animals, its tropical and subtropical areas, its exceptional scenery and environment made to recreate the occupants’ original environment. Unfortunately, we couldn't visit it because we had a long drive. On the other hand, we had time to admire the Botanical Garden, as varied as abundant. It has many tropical plants, including carnivorous plants. It is housed by the Botanical Building: made of wooden slats, this one is really beautiful with its curved lines. The Spreckels Organ Pavilion enjoys a refined architecture. The very imposing organ it houses under its vault is a true wonder. You can see from the distance the harmonious outline of the California Tower, which proudly overlooks a sumptuous architectural ensemble in Hispanic Colonial style.
Coronado Island is a superb peninsula you can get to from the city center on the ferry or by road driving across the impressive San Diego-Coronado Bridge, opened in 1969. It is linked to the continent by an 11 kilometers isthmus: the Silver Strand. It’s mainly residential and superb modern villas are near sumptuous Victorian houses. According to many people, Coronado Central Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in the U.S.A. Its Southern part is more attractive: indeed, when the tide goes out, it lets resurface the Monte Carlo shipwreck - that ran aground in the 1930’s - like a ghost from the past. But above it all, it is where the sumptuous Hotel Del Coronado - in an extravagant Victorian style - majestically rises. Its immaculate façades and its red roofs - especially the one of the Crown Room, with an octagonal shape - are well known all around the world. It is a real jewel of architecture that we visited a long time. The reception hall is just fabulous. It is mainly made of varnished oak wood. Its ceiling, its columns and its interior balconies will leave you speechless. Its terrace offers a breathtaking view of the ocean. It was the first in the world to install electric illumination. It was made famous in 1959 thanks to the movie “Some like it hot” with Tony Curtis, Jack Lemon and the unforgettable Marilyn Monroe. Yet, the part of the movie which concerns the Hotel Del Coronado takes place… in Florida!!?
Facing Coronado Island, Point Loma, superb peninsula covered with cliffs, has two major assets. First, there is Whale Overlook, a perfect spot for whale-watching. However, it is limited to the winter period. The other attraction is the beautiful Cabrillo National Monument, located on the highest point of the peninsula. One might as well say that it offers an unrestricted panoramic view. It was named after the explorer who discovered the San Diego Bay in the 16th century. A four meters high statue of him proudly rises there. Nearby stands the Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery, very wide military cemetery which white graves line in a perfect grid on impeccable red lawns. Old Point Loma Lighthouse is one of the oldest lighthouses in California, built in the mid 19th century. It closed decades ago but you can visit it, especially since it is very well preserved. Finally, the Sunset Cliffs spot is much appreciated by surfers.
Old Town has a considerable historical significance. And for good reason: there are quite simply the first European facilities in California. They date from 1769, even though the site was discovered by the Spanish nearly in the mid 16th century. However, it only prospered during one century, when they decided to move the core of the city to the bay. Shortly after, a fire sealed the fate of Old Town. But they started to restore it from the late 1960's, conscious of its inestimable value. The Old Town San Diego State Historic Park recounts its history. Most of buildings are made from adobes that surround a garden. The Presidio Park includes the very first of the 21 missions built in California: the Mission San Diego de Alcalá. Heritage Park is a site composed of restored houses and cottages in Victorian style.
La Jolla is a very charming small opulent seaside resort that includes among others the University of California San Diego and the Torrey Pines golf course. It is home to many different architectural styles. The atmosphere there is very pleasant and if you mingle with locals and some visitors, you will be quickly in a contagious good mood, notably on Scripps Beach where we lingered. On the sand, facilities are available to the public to have its own barbecue. The Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve offers much appreciated trails. The entrance is free but parking is expensive. However, there are some free parking lots outside the site… for the first come or the luckiest… Various viewpoints offer breathtaking panoramas. The same can be said about the one in Mount Soledad, a little further south. It is a monument dedicated to military casualties fallen in battle during the various contemporary wars in which the Commonwealth participated. Perched on the top of a hill, it is surmounted by a big white Latin cross. We reveled in that unique view for a long time, and then we took the direction of La Jolla Cove entering a winding road in the heart of quiet residential areas. Outstanding properties surrounded by lush gardens extend across it and enjoy a looking down upon the beautiful cove. The whole was bathed in the blazing colors of a sumptuous sunset. Much photogenic, it is one of the nicest beaches in Southern California. Seals, sea lions and pelicans do the show and contribute to the friendly atmosphere of the place. Leopard sharks sometimes invite themselves, but they are harmless to humans. Finally, we had dinner at Brockton Villa Restaurant. It is a white wooden building nestled on a cliff; you reach it from a stairway. It offers a stunning view of the cove. As we chose a table outside on the wide balcony, we had front-row seats. And then, we returned to Mount Soledad - by night this time - to admire the city lights that extended in the distance.
Published on August 13th 2013
