State of Rio Grande Do Norte

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Natal

Land of surf and buggy, Natal is famous for its beaches, its dunes, its lukewarm ocean with powerful waves and its beautiful sunsets. Perched on hills, little houses and nice villas appear among trees. There is a really positive atmosphere. In contrast, the center is quite off-putting: the rare historic buildings are swallowed up by concrete. That’s why we stayed in the district of Ponta Negra (photo), more pleasant and safer. Admittedly, the place is touristy, the crowd is huge and barracas are numerous. But it remains very pleasant and there is a unique view of its famous 50 meters high dune partially covered with trees, which hides a sand desert.
The city has a fort from the 16th century: the Fortaleza dos Reis Magos. Nearby, Praia Forte is a beach protected by reefs, which causes the formation of nice natural pools. In direction of Ponta Negra, Praia de Meio – where you can eat crab – and Areia Preta are unfit for swimming. According to Praia dos Artistas, it is known for its fair surf conditions.
We stayed in Marsallis Hotel, where we sympathized with the staff, very kind and always ready to help you, far beyond the call of duty. It was really heartwarming. Incidentally we salute them and thank them once again. Generally, people in Natal are helpful, as well as in the rest of the country. That being said, they are so willing to help you and tip you up that they will do even if they are not completely sure of the information they give you. Even though it is definitely not unwillingness from them, focus on getting various opinions before you decide.
As far as catering is concerned, we were surprised by a mention «couvert» on the bill, amounting from 5 to 10R$ per person according to the establishment. Actually, it is a sum taken off to contribute to the pay of the band or the solo artist who performs there. Nevertheless, be aware that you can refuse. You just have to take your bill and meet the owner to negotiate with him. We have been also confronted to that practice in Recife. However, we do not know if it is only usual in the Nordeste, or in the whole country.

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Praia de Pipa

If you had to choose one beach on the Rio Grande do Norte coast, it would be surely that one. Heavenly place with stunning ocher cliffs which displays a striking color contrast with the golden sand and the turquoise water, it will surely subjugate you. The spot, discovered by surfers nearly thirty years ago, is well preserved. Lagoons are formed with low tide thanks to the presence of reefs, and the water is pleasantly lukewarm. That small seaside resort is adorned with bougainvillea in some places. There, you will meet affable and casual people, and there is often music in the streets. It looks on to Praia do Centro where barracas unfortunately abound, and where you will be too often solicited by tourism professionals who will provide you their services, like in Porto de Galinhas in the state of Pernambuco, to a lesser degree however. In the same way, you will be able to avoid all of that if you make an effort to walk a few minutes, notably to the North where you will get to Praia do Curral. It is also named Baia dos Golfinhos because of the presence of dolphins that jump out of the water in a synchronized swimming that seems to be dedicated to visitors. However, beware the rising tide: indeed, the beach could be totally covered by water and there is no other access to the village. Remember to anticipate!
Further South is the beautiful and idyllic Praia do Amor, where the bird's eye view from the top of the cliffs is breathtaking.
Before we arrive in Praia de Pipa, we made a stop in Praia de Cacimbinha (photo), which gives a foretaste of the latter, offering the same kind of picture-postcard perfect. Just before, we made a stop in Lagoa de Guaraíras: the contrast there between the dunes eroded by the repeated onslaught of the powerful waves of the Atlantic Ocean and the mildness of the lagoon preserved from that almost permanent rage is spectacular. A still and smooth water takes on soft and changing colors around sandbanks. The greenery all around completes that idyllic picture. Very close to the dunes, some of which are covered with vegetation, the paragliders have a great time.


Published on April, 27th 2016