Illinois

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Chicago

Crossroads of the Midwest, Chicago has many parks and museums. It always had a pioneering and innovative spirit, particularly with regards to architecture. Besides, its School of Architecture is one of the most prestigious in the world. After the terrible fire in 1871 that destroyed a large part of the city, the latter became an open sky experimental field. Famous architects (among others William Le Baron Jenney and Louis Henry Sullivan) got on with rebuilding it, using revolutionary techniques that were a real turning point. There were born the first skyscrapers. They were the highest in the world for a long time, with the Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower), and to a lesser extent the John Hancock Center. They mix with other towers to form the famous Chicago skyline.
Its asserted urban spirit is peculiar to most cities of the Great Lakes region. Focused on politics, cosmopolitanism, sport, cultural and culinary richness, it is full of character, one of a kind. Located on the Lake Michigan shore, it has a lake front where miles of beach stretch out, and extraordinary parks, each one with its specificity. As well as New Orleans, it is one of the cradles of blues. Finally, it is the starting point of Route 66. As a result, we found ourselves during our trip to the U.S.A. at the point of departure and the arrival (Santa Monica, California) of that mythical road.
The American part of the action of my novel «Enjoy the ride» takes place in a great majority in Chicago, hence the artistic pilgrimage mentioned in the introduction to the section «Our articles - U.S.A. (2013)». That is the reason why visiting it meant so much to me. And it was widely up to my expectations.


We were lucky to start our discovery of Chicago with one of its most attractive districts: Streeterville, which is crossed by Michigan Avenue, rightly nicknamed «The Magnificent Mile», decorated with trees and multicolored flowers. Its buildings are among the most beautiful in the city, notably the Wrigley Building and the Tribune Tower. Moreover, we had the privilege to stay in the Intercontinental Hotel, which is part of those ancient buildings with a sumptuous interior and exterior architecture that abound in the neighborhood, and mix with modern towers. Dating from 1929, its entrance hall is remarkable, as well as its swimming-pool (photo), located in one of the floors. It also has a spa and a fitness center.
The weather was perfect, so we reached the nice Ohio Street Beach to swim in the lake and play beach-ball. The atmosphere there was good natured. It is surrounded by the pleasant Olive Park and Addams (Jane) Memorial Park.
We went back to the hotel to enjoy the swimming-pool and the dry sauna at length. After an only two hours night and a domestic flight Las Vegas-Chicago at dawn, we widely deserved it! Then, we went to have dinner in an excellent Italian restaurant. We came back by foot to the hotel, enjoying the Magnificent Mile by night, which then had a fascinating and magical dimension.

The day after, the weather was still great. It was Sunday and we decided to dedicate that nice day to the discovery of some of the remarkable parks in Chicago. We took a superb bridge across the Chicago River. Only river in the world which flow has been reversed by a human intervention, it brings a touch of sweetness, appeasement and reverie to the city. River boats sail casually along the water with a nice turquoise color. Superb apartments overlook it.
We reached Grant Park, vast green expanse along Lake Michigan, which enjoys many attractions. Green lung of the city, the place is much lively, and various festivals take place there. It is home to the Museum of Natural History, the Shedd Aquarium, and the Art Institute of Chicago. It also includes the astonishing and controversial Millenium Park, which main attractions are the Cloud Gate sculpture and its amazing bean shape, as well as the Jay Pritzker Pavilion, gigantic modern amphitheater. More south, we went to admire the Buckingham Fountain, huge pink marble fountain which waters sometimes spout up more than forty meters. We lingered there, and we had the privilege to attend an improvised show dance with many participants, men and women. It was a great moment.
Then, we headed for The Loop, which is the part of the city center delimited by the elevated railway. Filled with an old-fashioned charm and a little shaky old, it is a real attraction on its own, vibrant testimony of a past that is still part of present days. Its height allows you to discover the architectural richness of the district, where many styles are represented. The Chicago Theatre is one of the idealized images of the city. It was built in 1921 in an immediately recognizable style, notably with its neon sign known all around the world. The Route 66 Road Sign, which indicates the starting point of the famous route, is located in East Adams Street. The Willis Tower dominates the surroundings: it had been the highest tower in the world for a long time. Finally, there are very good restaurants there.
We took the subway to Lake View (photo), which is divided up into several very upscale sub-neighborhoods and offers ethnic restaurants, especially on Southport Avenue. Boystown is part of it: it is home to a significant LGBT community. Young, trendy and festive, it is very popular for its cafes, its cocktail bars and its record stores. Night life there is hectic thanks to its comedy clubs, its theaters and its night clubs. We enjoyed its much relaxed atmosphere.
Finally, we headed for the famous Lincoln Park, an upscale and very popular area divided up into an urban part and a large park. The latter is located on the shore of Lake Michigan. It is the most extended in the city with its eleven kilometers long, and the most visited in the United States after Central Park in New-York. Lincoln Park Zoo (the greatest free zoo in the world), the Chicago History Museum and the Nature Museum are its main attractions. Its recreational complex includes various team sports grounds, tennis courts and a golf course. It also includes a few ports with navigation facilities and public beaches. The landscaped gardens with bird sanctuaries are not forgotten, as well as the theater overlooking the lake which offers regular performances in open air during summer. We first reached the pleasant Belmont Harbor, and then the Chicago Yacht Club and Fullerton Beach. We followed the lakefront, lined by lawns scattered with trees and some sculptures, as well as traditional as modern. Once we arrived to the very popular North Avenue Beach, we swam again in Lake Michigan. Sports facilities are numerous; we notably attended beach-volley and rink hockey games.
After lingering there at length, we carried on to Gold Coast, very upscale area that proudly displays its luxury hotels, its imposing manors and its beautiful Beaux Arts style stone houses with private gardens. The wealthiest people in Chicago live there. The area is classified as a historic monument. We walked along Oak Street Beach, to which you can easily have access thanks to the pedestrian tunnels that pass under the very long and very busy Lake Shore Drive.
We went to the Navy Pier, which is a real amusement park lined by a promenade and built on a more than one kilometer long pier. Like Santa Monica pier in California, it has a Ferris wheel. It is laid out along the river which joins Michigan Avenue passing by the Centennial Fountain. From there, we could admire the Chicago skyline under a splendid sunset.
We ended that unforgettable day going to enjoy a very hearty deep-dish pizza, local version of the famous Italian recipe prepared in a hollow mold and including a thick filling.

For our last day, we got up to the 94th floor of the John Hancock Center, where we could enjoy a breathtaking view. It is just as beautiful as the view from the Willis Tower, with moreover the advantage of a shorter line to have access there. You must pay $18, but no time limit is imposed. So, we lingered there before we get down to go to visit the Fourth Presbyterian Church and its cloister (photo) just opposite, which peace and quiet offers an entrancing contrast with the hustle and bustle of Michigan Avenue. Finally, we admired for the last time the old Water Tower, spared by the great fire in 1871, which became the symbol of the city. It gave its name to the Water Tower Place shopping mall.
There ended that memorable stay in Chicago, and at the same time that unforgettable first trip to the U.S.A., both the fulfillment of a several years dream and an extraordinary human adventure. It was time for us to go back to France, with a heavy heart, but above it all with the head filled with images and memories, and the certainty that it was only the start of a long series.
 
Chicago is part of our favorite cities. To have direct access to the section, click here




Published on August 13th 2013

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